Repair tips for Electromechanical (EM) pinball, and arcade games:
| Timing Gear Motors - SEGA and others. |
 Motor doesn't drive pin, stripped... |
 Grab your Silver Solder (SS), SS Flux and gas torch |
 A bit of flux on the heated SS wire |
 Apply to gear and shaft |
 Carefully heat - take care not to MELT the gears! |
 Silver Solder results |
 Clean old grease |
 Reassemble gear train... |
 Put together... |
 Tap with hammer to close lip. |
Williams
There is a design flaw (not safety - just nuisance) in Williams fusing of the DC Pop and Kickers on their 70's pins. If the bridge rectifier shorts out (not that uncommon) it will blow the 15A Solenoid fuse and it can take a while to find the problem.
There IS a 10A fuse on the output of the bridge that will open if a coil fries, but not if the bridge croaks. I recommend the rewiring of the fuse so it is now on the INPUT to one side of the bridge and simply connect the wire that was originally on the fuse directly to the positive terminal of the bridge.
I also suggest that the fuses changed to a 2.5A Slo-Blo fuse from a 10A fast. Better chance that the fuse will blow before a coil burns out this way. Here are some pictures to explain the process:
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These are pictures of the bridge rectifier as originally wired |
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And to the right is the section of the schematic covering this |
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On the left is the first change, first unsolder the fuse holder, and move the white wire to the isolated bare wire and solder it in place |
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Next move the yellow wire that originally was soldered to the second lug to the fuse holder. |
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Now add the new blue (chose your own colour) wire... |
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A second view and on the left the schematic showing the modifications in blue. |
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