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Game Plan Pinball tech tips page...
Z80 sub-board, note the removed RAM! (64149 bytes) We have just finished our replacement Z80 RAM/ROM board and it fixes about 80 - 90% of Game Plan MPU problems that are related to either battery corrosion or failing RAM or ROM. A simple plug-in sub-board this is an elegant method to get your board running again.
Only $125US plus shipping. Currently out of production I'm afraid, 
Modified RESET - much simpler! (80272 bytes) On another note, I have designed a replacement for the RESET circuit that often fails in these games-much simpler as you replace a bunch of resistors and transistors with a single IC (called a CPU Supervisor), and cut and jumper a few traces. I shall expand that here in the future.
GP-MPU2-2764.JPG (270691 bytes) To replace the ROM memory with a single EPROM (2764) all you need to do is first program the 2764 with the game code loading from 0000h up. Next bend out pins #20, 22, and 23 on the 2764. Then solder a jumper wire on pins #26, 27, 28 and 1 (tie all to 5VDC). Now refer to the photo to the left and add jumper wires from 2764-P2 to A12, 2764-P23 to A11, 2764-P22 to A15, and 2764-P20 to /MREQ. Works for me! 
GamePlan-Corrosion.jpg (165309 bytes) Battery corrosion is a real problem for Game Plan MPUs, please read up the details on my battery page...
GamePlanMPU-bad-cap.jpg (71464 bytes) Weird Solenoid or Lamp problems? Do you not get any sounds or are they mixed up, yet the MPU and Sound boards both seem to be ok? Then take a look at this capacitor - it might be broken or leaky. This capacitor is a critical timing capacitor.

Replacing the original Harris HM6551-9 CMOS RAMs with a pair of 5101s

GP-MPU2-CutPin19_18-1.JPG (125140 bytes) MPU-2 (and MPU-1) 1st cut solder pads between Pins 18 & 19 on both U6 and U7
GP-MPU2-CutPin19_18-2.JPG (147612 bytes) MPU-2 (and MPU-1) should look like this now. 
GP-MPU2-CutU5Pin8.JPG (100449 bytes) MPU-2 (and MPU-1) cut trace from U5-Pin 8
GP-MPU1-PiggyBack74LS04.JPG (94582 bytes) MPU-1 mods to topside of MPU - add 74(LS/HCT)04 (Piggy Back) on top of U5 (print out image). You need this inverter as there are no free gates left on the MPU-1 PCB, and we will need two inverter gates. For the MPU-1 PCB you have to connect Pin 9 of the Piggy Back to U5-Pin 8, bend out Piggy Back-Pin 8 and add a jumper to the cut trace. 

This is almost identical to the MPU-2 mods except that MPU-2 has  a spare inverter gate on U24 that we will use to invert U6/7-Pin17, thus we will only need one gate on the Piggy Back.

GP-MPU1-CutU5-P8.JPG (75366 bytes) MPU-1 alternate picture showing cut trace at U5-Pin8 and jumper to Piggy Back-Pin 8 and jumpers to U6-pins 20 and 18 as described below.
GP-MPU1-ModToPin18-2.JPG (177108 bytes) MPU-1 mods to underside of MPU board (same solder pad cuts as MPU-2 below)
GP-MPU2-ModsMarked.jpg (188232 bytes) MPU-2 Now...(print out this image)...add jumpers between U6-Pin 20 and Piggy Back-Pin 11 (input), then jumper between U6-Pin 18 and Piggy Back-Pin 10 (output). This sets up the OE pin so it is the opposite of R/W. Add jumper between U6-Pin 19 and U7-Pin 19 (note that U6 & U7 Pin 18's are already connected with a trace on the top side of the PCB). Next jumper U5-Pin 8 to U24-Pin 11, then jumper U24-Pin 10 to U6-Pin 17.
GP-MPU2-PiggyBack74X04-Comments.jpg (144910 bytes) MPU-2 Location of Piggy Back and the required connections.

You can order a replacement MPU ($195US I beleive) for either cocktail or regular Game Plan games from:

Jim Francesangeli
Echo Lake Pinball Service & Sales
925 Marwin Dr.
Hinckley, Ohio 44233
tel: 330-278-2228
jvbuzzard(at)earthlink(dot)net

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